To B&B or Not to B&B?

 By Leslie Ebbs

 Manicured gardens, haute cuisine, nifty gift shops, gospel music, and a barnful of llamas: anyone who thinks the only thing you get at a B&B is a bed and breakfast is in for a surprise in eastern Ontario’s Upper Canada region.

An enlightening mini-vacation spent at four B&Bs a short drive from Morrisburg confirmed my belief that when it comes to travelling, there’s no place like home. Someone else’s, that is.

Our first stop was Nightingale House, the largest wooden structure moved to Ingleside from the “Lost Village” of Wales during the construction of the St. Lawrence Seaway. The century-old building is a living museum, its warren of tiny rooms brimming with antique furnishings and decorations.  A gleaming silver service used for Victorian teas made an appearance at our decadent breakfast of gingerbread waffles, fresh fruit, and homemade preserves.

 After a stroll in the Nightingale’s colourful gardens, we made the short drive to Elisabeth’s Llama Ranch near Williamsburg, where our Swiss hostess introduced us to the clever and curious full-time residents of her pastoral B&B. The soft fibre sheared from her beloved herd (which includes some alpacas) is used to create everything from sumptuous throws to ultra-warm scarves, mittens, and socks.

 Fueled on coffee and carrot cake, we spent the afternoon sightseeing before landing at the Village Antiques and Tea Room in Williamsburg for a dining experience that exceeded our wildest expectations. Originally a harness-maker’s shop, the 150-year-old inn boasts immaculate guest rooms with antique furnishings (also for sale), a gift shop with a hip spa bent, and an intimate 14-seat dining room with an eclectic menu focused on fresh, seasonal ingredients. The creamy lovage soup, crafted from herbs from the garden, mouth-watering olive and eggplant tapenade, hearty lentil casserole, and spicy salsa-topped salmon will bring us back to this tiny crossroads at the earliest possible opportunity.

 We spent our last night at Terrace Green, a faithful replica of the namesake inn that stood on the picturesque acreage for over 80 years. A sprawling and stately home with a wraparound veranda, it has a lavishly modern interior: luxurious tile and hardwood flooring, leather furniture, spacious, sunny rooms, and a spa-style shower with seven strategically placed heads. We slept like babies in a room with a king-sized bed, a gas fireplace, and enough room for a dance floor. Hallelujah! The site will host its second annual Gospelfest on the last weekend of August.

 "This article originally appeared in the fall 2009 issue of CAA North and East Ontario Magazine and has been reprinted with permission.  For more information about the CAA, call 1 800 JOIN CAA or visit www.caaneo.ca.”